Datejust has more than 70 years of history, dating back to 1945. The latest model has also evolved to a 41 mm diameter and uses the latest Cal 3235 movement. But the earlier 36mm classic model still has many fans. This short article by Sir Zhai Zhong is the best to share my memories with you. (The following is the text)
116138 & 16018
“Steel King” 1601 was the dream of many people in Hong Kong in the 1970s and 1980s. But within a week of the launch of the 1601’s replacement, the Ref 16014, I bought it. It is difficult to tell the specific date, but according to the factory records, the 27-jewel Cal 3035 movement used in 16014 was launched in 1977, which is about this date.
In my mind, 16014 has killed 1601 to pieces. The most significant difference between the two is that the so-called “turtle-back” shaped surface rising in the center is replaced by a flat surface.
Some say it is more straightforward, simple, and elegant, but I disagree. 16014 and all Datejusts of the same period have a cheerful and open-minded appearance, with an actual royal style. The gold 16018 (from this period, Rolex has used the last number of the model to represent the case material) is much more generous than the same metal 1601. Fake rolex watch.
Special dial 16018
In addition to appearance, the new 3035 movement has improved the calendar adjustment function. In the past, Datejust used the first three and last three methods to adjust the date. This kind of work requires “semi-” professional training.
Simply put, its calendar adjustment method is first to rotate the pointer to make the calendar jump one space, then move it back 3 hours, then forward 3 hours to jump forward another day, and so on. I understood this operation after buying the 1601. And even if you “understand” it, you still need to think about it every time you need to adjust it to make it smooth. Bell and ross replica.
The new 3035 has an extra pull-stop on the crown, and the first stop in the center can directly adjust the date, which is much more convenient. The date can be easily changed from now on. So, I can’t stand the 1601 in comparison.
Although the date adjustment only needs to be done once every month, and in most cases, it only needs to be adjusted one day forward, I can’t bear the invisible thorn in my heart, and I can’t do it without changing to 16014. My friends have reserved my 1601 for a long time. Changing the watch is meaningful and beneficial, so why not do it?
In 1988, the 3035 movement was upgraded to 3135. The most significant change is in the balance wheel. The excellent balance weight and upper balance clamp make this movement more stable. Consumers see from the surface that 27 stones have been upgraded to 31.
To show the internal improvements, the model number of the gold Datejust was also changed from 16018 to 16238. Ththinky-Date style 18038 to 18238 at least adds direct dialing for the week, which is more convenient and welcome. But changed to 16238, and it is not easy to see the difference. Some people will find it frustrating.
The appearance of 16018 and 16238 is the same, but when you operate it, you can see that the manufacturer has good intentions. When adjusting the time, the hands of 16018 are opposite to the crown. If the crown is turned clockwise, the hands will turn counterclockwise, which is awkward.
16238 adds a gear so that both rotate in the same direction during adjustment. This is not only an improvement that meets the needs of consumers in every detail but also provides people with a tip to know whether the movement inside is 3035 or 3135 without opening the watch case.
3135 movement details
In 2000, Rolex watches underwent a significant transformation. In the case of a more robust and thicker shape, the shell’s polished parts have also increased, making the whole more brilliant.
Viewed from the side, the outline appears stable and solid, and the ends of the lugs have been changed from the pointed tail characteristic of the Oyster case to a blunt tail, making it suitable for different types of wrists.
Combined with the thickening of the case, the famous striped outer ring has been widened, and the stripes have become slightly denser. For models with a bracelet, the “cross-bridge” between the two lugs is abandoned, giving the bracelet a one-piece feel.
Although it is still caliber 3135 and caliber is still 36 mm, the elegance and grace of the new model dwarf the old model. The model number of the new series has been changed from 5 to 6 digits. Taking the gold model as an example, the chain belt is 116238, and the leather belt is 116138.
On the other hand, changes show how much Rolex attaches importance to Datejust. In the 2004 new model, the inner ring of the case is specially engraved with the Crown trademark, Rolex name, and the independent number of the watch. This unique watch is trendy, and the Turn-O-Graph is particularly outstanding. On the contrary, people must remember that the 2005 version of the Datejust also had this treatment.
Case Color: Gold-tone
Band Length: 18cm
Dial Color: Mother of Pearl Dial
Engine: Rolex Calibre 2671