The Perpetual 1908 series is a petite but essential new watch of Rolex this year.
Because I know that when I first saw this watch today, I thought it was Cellini who was changing the look, but I found that Cellini is gone, and it is gone. The series it came out with is called 1908. We can watch this. Then why do you think Rolex has used such a big battle this time? It should be done well, and then start again. to this field?
Compared with the ordinary Oyster and sports watches before Rolex, the changes in 1908 are substantial. First of all, the thickness of the Perpetual 1908 watch is skinny. This time, the thickness of this watch is only 9.5 mm. Compared with the previous imitation Rolex, such as the Oyster watch and the water ghost, their thickness is generally 13 mm, so the dress style is 9.5mm. It has come to the field of formal looks like the Patek Philippe 5227 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra-Thin Master Moon Phase.
Just now, you mentioned critical data of 9.5 mm. This thickness does not need to be compared with those of Rolex’s water ghosts. It means that it is in the field of formal watches. This data is a fragile existence, right??
The thickness of 9.5 mm is an average level for formal watches because watches like Piaget and Bulgari that pursue ultra-thin thickness will be fragile. The thickness of the Perpetual 1908 is roughly the same as that of regular watches. Perkins, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, and Lange are at the same level.
Then can I also understand that the size of this Rolex formal watch this time, its shape has finally reached the scope of this regular standard watch? Like others, the previous Rolex has not got it.
If you use the standard of a regular formal watch, the Perpetual 1908 is the first time Rolex has reached the size of an authentic traditional look in the past two years. For example, our log type or week calendar, if they are used as a pure watch. Their thickness is slightly thicker.
That is, it is about 1 cm. It should be regarded as a relatively standard formal watch. So what does that apart from the thinner thickness, there is another aspect in which it is compared. Let’s talk about the previous generation Cellini; which part do you think is more refined.
Because under the current trend of famous watches, formal watches are not easy to be exceptionally prominent, but this time the Perpetual 1908 is the first one on the hands. You can see that it uses a Breguet pointer, increasing the dial’s recognition. At the same time, it also forms a more noticeable difference from other brands of formal replica Rolex watches.
We see that apart from its thinness and the case, some family elements come with Rolex, and then we also pay attention to one is the transparent back. Although Cellini has also produced a transparent back before, this year, Rolex is different. What’s more, it’s not only the back of the formal watch but also the Ditongda sports watch, so what do you think about the back of Rolex?
Because Rolex’s changes in classic series such as Daytona and Water Ghost over the years can be said to be unchanged, it also needs to make a relatively significant change this year through the bottom. That means helplessness, right? It is to give this Daytona new vitality.
Did you notice a detail? Let’s not talk about 1908. You found that there is no Daytona and Titanium yacht this year. It changed its shell.
When this watch was released, there was indeed the sound of changing the case, but it was not so carefully observed at that time because of the urgency of time, but as this period passed. Indeed, you can see that the case has been changed. It has been a relatively significant change in the lugs. Like the previous Rolex Oyster watch, its lugs are rounded; it looks like a strip from the side. The arc, this year, is equivalent to cutting the bottom of the table into a flat.
For a brand that does not change its shell, this matter is more significant; what do you think?
If you look at the evolution of Rolex, from its model, such as from the era of five-digit numbering in the past, such as 16610, to the latest generation of watch case changes, this time is relatively large. The last changes are mainly in In terms of the case polishing, from the bruised lugs to the current polished lugs; the changes in the case are significant this time.
This time, Rolex made this formal watch very thin. The reason it can be made very thin is that I think there is another crucial factor, which is that it launched a brand new movement for this formal watch, and then You also said before that you will find that this watch has an extra crown at 6 o’clock. Is this factor also a point to identify that it uses a new movement?
Among the Rolex on sale, except for the batch of Rolex that used the 32 series movement in the early days, all Rolex that uses the new generation movement now have the small crown at 6 o’clock on the dial. The 7140 automatic movement launched is a new generation movement that uses all the latest technologies of Rolex so far.
I said before that Rolex wanted to make this formal watch this time because you also know that Cellini put the Oyster core in it. Then this time, a new movement was re-developed for 1908, which means that this time it is indeed Rolex who wants to make efforts in formal watches, right?
Because in the past, Cellini directly put the 31 series movement at that time; objectively speaking, it is not so suitable for Cellini because Rolex movements are generally a bit thicker, and the 31 series movement was 6 mm time, so this. As a result, the thickness of the entire watch will be relatively thin after the clock is installed. This time, the consistency of the 7140 movements is only 4.05 mm. As a self-winding movement, its thickness is also relatively thin, reducing the Perpetual 1908.
This movement is very high in addition to the thin configuration, as this configuration is higher than that of the traditional Oyster.
The 7140 movements this time are significantly different from the previous 31 series and 32 series. First of all, this movement is an automatic movement with a central four-wheel layout, but it is extraordinary that you can see that the small second hand on its dial is at 6 o’clock. The four wheels that usually install the second hand are in the center of the movement, but the small second hand has moved to the lower 6 o’clock position. This is because Rolex used a double-layered wheel to pull the small second hand to the 6 o’clock position.
To put it simply, it is to add an overwhelm. If you say too much, people may not understand it, but from the perspective of the entire movement parts, one part impresses me: the elastic teeth. Bar? Because I found that springy things are increasingly used in this watch. For example, it said that the vertical clutch mechanism of 4130 is also an elastic tooth. The flexible part you are talking about is the first Rolex. One-time use, right?
It has been used in 4130 before. It uses this gear with elastic teeth because of the layout of the second hand, because its four wheels are in the center, and the second hand is at 6 o’clock because everyone knows this gear. The more it is, the more its transmission efficiency and torque will continue to decline. So now, on the movements of Rolex, including Patek Philippe, the power transmission efficiency is maintained to prevent torque drop. This kind of gear with elastic teeth will be used. You can see that the teeth of its gear are composed of two flexible metal pieces.
Compared with the transmission, the meaning should be buffering. It is like the car’s gearbox changing from a rigid connection to a weak link. What do you think?
Although Rolex has no official introduction in this regard, there are also reasons for this.
In addition to seeing the elastic teeth this time, we can see that this watch uses a silicon hairspring. Rolex’s men’s eye does not have a silicon hairspring. It was only used in women’s journals before, right? Moreover, the shape of the silicon hairspring is peculiar this time. What’s so special about it? Compared with these silicon hairsprings on the market, because there are not many on the market, right?
With Rolex’s attitude of pursuing safety, Rolex has used silicon hairsprings in women’s watches. Rolex may hope that silicon hairsprings will be confirmed over time. Because the blue niobium hairspring was launched after 2000, according to the frequency of Rolex’s new releases in the past, it will only update a new generation of technology when the patent period of a patented product is about to expire. So from this period, the patent period of Rolex blue niobium hairspring will still have a specific period. During this period, Rolex’s silicon hairspring will also be confirmed over time. Until then, silicon hairsprings will be widely used in men’s watches.
In addition to the elastic teeth and the escapement, we know that grinding is essential for a watch with a transparent back. How do you evaluate the grinding of this Rolex?
This year, Rolex polishing has attracted everyone’s attention. On the 7140 movements, its polishing level is the highest level of Rolex.
Then you think this movement is better polished than Daytona’s 4131, right?
Judging from the current level of Rolex movement polishing, the 7140 movement represents the highest level of Rolex. You can see its all-gold automatic rotor, the upper splint is covered with Geneva stripes, and the exposed gem bearings are all gold-plated. , the balance cock is brushed, and according to Rolex’s previous polishing style, the visible and invisible parts are all polished. At the same time, everyone can see that the sun pattern radiated on its barrel is also complete.
In the past, the Rolex movement can be said to be functionally polished, but this time it has finally reached the level of decorative polishing, so is it already considered qualified, or does it still exceeds expectations?
In the past, I e polishing Rolex movements was very conscientious because, at its level, there are polishings in the visible and invisible places. Many other brands can’t do it, but Rolex is, after all, in terms of polishing details. It’s positioning here is to pursue practicality, so it is less refined than Patek Philippe, which is polished at this level. Still, with the 7140 movements, we can see that it is moving closer to the craftsmanship level.
Then I also noticed a detail: the balls and bearings on the automatic rotor in the past were either six or sporadic anyway. Today I saw that the circle is full of beads. This time the automatic rotor upgraded the ball bearings on the 7140 movements. You can see that it is covered with ball bearings. The 4131 on the Daytona is also covered with this ball bearing. Is this over-configured, or is it beneficial?
It should be beneficial because, based on my usual experience of playing with watches, this automatic rotor wear is still a widespread problem. More ball bearings will have a better effect on the wear support of the automatic rotor.
This watch can be considered qualified regarding movement and appearance, or is this watch regarded as a standard for a formal look? Is it higher than this standard or normal?
The 1908 watch is a formal watch that meets the traditional standards because, in fact, in history, the most standard formal watch should be a two-hand or three-hand watch, and it should not even have a calendar or luminous light—the most standard proper watch. You can see that the Perpetual 1908 fully meets this standard, so this watch is ubiquitous and traditional.
As you said about formal wear, watches are becoming more sporty and casual. This is correct. But why is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a very traditional standard proper look? It has something to do with the brand’s positioning because Rolex used to be a sports-oriented oyster watch. The technological polishing of the core is still a complex function. Other brands, such as Patek Philippe, Blancpain, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, traditional brands that focus on formal watches, need sports and leisure. So different brands have different routes, so Rolex needs to launch a formal look. Perpetual 1908, through this standard watch, Rolex may show more movements in the future.
You said there would be more significant moves; that is to say, this watch will revive the appearance of those antique Rolex watches in the future. Are you adding functions or something?
This is possible because Rolex produced a lot of relatively complicated watches in the 1950s, such as the 6062 full-calendar moon phase and then the 4768 full-calendar moon phase timekeeping. Later, Rolex embarked on this thorough Oyster route. These watches are no longer launched because you can see that the movement layout of 1908 is exceptional; it is the layout of the four wheels in the center. Still, the small second hand is arranged to the 6 o’clock position through the wheel, so this means that, Yes, it is straightforward to remove the small second hand or change the function layout of the dial in other ways. Because you can recall the 6062 in the history of Rolex, the design of its complete calendar moon phase is window plus pointer, the calendar pointer is in the center of the disk, a central tip is used to indicate the calendar, and the moon phase is at 6 o’clock, so From the layout of its new movement in 1908, we can see that it is likely to add functional modules and change the form of the disk in the future. That is to say; this watch will have this infinite possibility in the future; that is to say, everyone can choose Rolex when choosing a formal look.
Case Size: 39mm
Dial Color: Black Dial
Case Color: Rose Gold-tone
Band Color: Black